We got up at 5 am to walk over to the Salstraumen. As I wrote yesterday this is one of the strongest tidal currents in the world. We were expecting some wild water but ‘only’ saw a strong current. To be honest that was what was described but nonetheless a bit disappointed because we got up very early and - of course - it rained again. Not sure if I would visit this again.

The goal for today is a new rear wheel tire that I ordered. I promised to be in Mo I Rana around 3 o clock so we had plenty of time. The BMW app surprised us again with a beautiful scenic route. We stopped at amazing white water rivers. The trip also included some wet dirt roads so we took it easy. Our coffee break was at a shop/ cafe combined. Beautiful shop and excellent pastries. The place had all kind of old or semi-old stuff. The kind you use to decorate your house or man-cave.

We crossed the artic circle again in style. With a lot of rain. Somehow that is the recurring theme of our days riding together. Temperatures are between 8 and 16 degrees celsius. That is a bit chilly. We also had some really nice dry parts so life is still good. At the artic circle we stopped and had our lunch and looked at the Artic Circle souvenirs. Of course we drove our bikes up to the monument and took pictures. During our trip we saw plenty of sheep walking or lying on the roads. We took the backroads as usual and I guess they know its theirs. Might have to do with the rain but they were everywhere.

When we arrived in Mo I Rana it was something between dry and drizzling rain. Not too bad to change a tire and put up you tent. The shop I ordered my tire was specialised in cars but the owner managed to get the tire I wanted. He asked if I could put it on myself because his guys were extremely busy. I can confirm that they were changing tires in record speed. Took them 3 minutes on average. Not exactly formula 1 but much faster than when I change my tires at home. So we started to take the wheel off and take the tire off the rim. One of the guys in the garage offered help with his machine and I reluctantly accepted. It would clearly have been a terrible job to do it with own tools. It would also be more rewarding to do it myself. At least I know that I have the right tools with me to change a tire and if needed I’d be able to do it.

The campsite was great. Nice kitchen and a large common room with a reclining chair. Guess where we sat. We ate sausages, salad and bread and that is our last meal together. Tomorrow Leo and I go our own separate ways. It was amazing to ride together, experience the Lofoten together and continue to enjoy our friendship. After a dram of whisky we went to bed.